When I left the telescopes at midnight tonight I was greeted by a beauty I can hardly describe. A white snow covered landscape lit by bright moonlight. The whole effect was completely unexpected and the impact was felt to the core. Overhead the stars shone brightly despite the bright half moon. The clean high altitude air reflects little moonlight to drown out the stars. All around the many pu'us of the summit were geometrically precise cones of pure white outlined here and there with unremitting black where the snow has melted away to reveal the cinder below.
Orion, Canis Major, Sirius, Canopus, Arcturus and Rigel, the brightest of stars and constellations gracing the sky, signposts to the vast galaxy around us. At one point I simply stopped and stared at the universe. To know what you are looking at, the vastness of space and the pinprick lights of countless suns. That is awe beyond comprehension at one level. But even if you forget all of our knowledge, the stars are simply stars and the Moon simply another light in the sky, it is still a stunningly beautiful experience. The scene is of such beauty that these mere words just seem completely inadequate.
Of course you need to make the first part of the drive without headlights around the telescopes, leaving the eye dark adapted and able to enjoy each new vista as I wound my way down the mountain. I was loath to turn on the headlights and lose the scenery, keeping the lights off far longer than necessary, only turning them on once I reached the end of the paved road at the summit.
There are times I rejoice that I am alive and able to experience such things. Tonight, in the snow and moonlight atop Mauna Kea was one of them.
I am sorry, the photo does not capture it, but this is all I can offer...